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My grandmother’s comal was only about six inches in diameter. It was as central in her home, tucked behind pecan trees and loblolly pines heavy with Spanish moss in Live Oak, Fla., as the amber ashtrays and pickled hot peppers in Mason jars on her dining-room table.
This house was full of “Hee Haw” and the Mandrell Sisters and Ray Charles and old dogs that smelled worse than they looked. It was also full of chili verde and carne adovada, homegrown chile de árbol, jalapeño and serranos for pickling or eating fresh with everything and my grandmother’s tortillas, fresh off her comal, the cast-iron griddle from which she flipped the most memorable food of my childhood.
Recipe: Flour Tortillas With Honey and ButterIn the Live Oak days, back in the early 1980s, I would watch as she warmed the stove and gathered her tools: the plastic bowl meant just for making tortillas, her rolling pin and the plate to rest the rolled dough. These flour tortillas were our daily bread, whipped up in a matter of moments. The kneading and shaping, rolling and shifting were moves she had been doing since she was tall enough to reach a countertop, about as big as I was when I would attach myself to her side and wait for my hot tortilla.
Follow The New York TimesFind us on Instagram for the best of our visual journalism and beyond.Join our WhatsApp Channel for breaking news, games, recipes and more.Connect with us on Facebook to get the best of The Times, right in your feed.In my memory, my Nana, Mary Gutierrez, wore a pair of baby blue polyester pants that hugged her hips, thick the way mine are now, her body full of life. Before she would start rolling the first tortilla, she would quickly touch the comal with her middle finger, to feel exactly how long she had before the temperature was correct. She would roll the first tortilla, touch the comal again and flip it on with her whole hand.
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